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Contouring And Corrective Make-Up Using Cream And Powder

Corrective Make-Up (General Face Shapes)

Square Shape

The forehead is broad corresponding with an angular jaw line. Shade the corners of the forehead, the cheeks and the jaw line to soften the straight lines of the face. Blend with a sponge or contour brush to give a rounded look to the hairline.

Makeup Aim: To narrow the forehead and jaw line reducing the squareness of this bone structure.

Round Shape

The face is usually short and broad with full cheeks and rounded contours. To minimise the width of the face, use a dark foundation to create a shadow on the sides of the forehead. Carry this shadow down the sides of the faces, below the cheekbone and around the jaw line. Blend well with a sponge.

Make-Up Aim: To slim the appearance.

Triangle Shape

The forehead is narrow and the face gradually widens to the angles of the jaw which are broad and prominent. Highlight the temples at the hairline and extend down to the cheekbones to increase the width of the forehead. Contour the lower part of the face under the chin and jaw line. Blend well with a sponge.

Make-Up Aim: To create an impression of width across the forehead and to narrow the jaw line.

Heart Shape

Usually has a wide forehead with the face tapering to a long jaw line, rather like an inverted triangle. Shade the forehead and chin, highlight cheeks and jaw line.

Make-Up Aim: To reduce width across forehead and emphasising jaw line.

Oblong Shape

This face has a narrow shaped frame. Shorten the face by shading the fore-head chin. Broaden by highlight the side of the face.

Make-Up Aim: To create an impression of width and shorten the face length.

Oval Shape

This shaped face and bone structure is generally considered to be the ideal shape. The chin tapers slenderly from a slightly wider forehead. Needs little contouring and highlighting.

Make-Up Aim: To accentuate natural shape.

Application Of Blush

There are 2 main ways in which blush can be applied determine by the different face shapes. It can be applied 

  • From the cheek towards the ear or
  • From the ear towards the nose.

Use your contour brush, which is slightly stiff, blend all edges so there is no distinct line where your blush ends.

Suitable For Square, Round And Heart Shaped Faces

Apply blush along the cheekbone, starting right under the outer edge of your iris. You can find this spot by placing two fingers next to your nose - start there, outside your fingers. Blend the color out to the hairline at the tip of your ear. Most of the color should be on the crest of the bone, approximately at the outer corner of your eye.

Suitable For Oval, Oblong And Triangle Face Shapes

Apply blush just below the temple, next to the pinnacle of the ear. Feathering the color slightly downward into the hollow of your cheek towards the nose, in a teardrop shape. The right placement of your blush is just as important as the intensity. Applying blush too low can make your face look droopy. If you apply it too high, into the circles under your eye, you'll look as if someone punched you! Flattering placement is easy to achieve if you follow these simple guidelines.

  • Don't go lower than the centre of your ear at the outside, or below your nose on the inside.
  • Don't go closer to your nose than the outer edge of your iris.
  • Don't go into the circular area under the eye.
  • Don't go as high as your temple.

Different Types Of Brush

Blush comes in a range of forms - powder, cream, gel, liquid and mousse - and under a variety of names, including rouge, blush, blusher and cheek tint. Rouge is usually a cream, blush a powder and cheek tint a gel or liquid. Each of these forms offers certain advantages. Some are especially suited to certain skin types.

Powder Blush

It is the most popular and the easiest to apply. It comes in either a matte or frosted finish. Both matte and slightly frosted blush are suitable for day wear, but highly frosted blush is strictly for night. It work best when applied over face powder and is suitable for all skin types, especially good for oily skin. Powder blush is applied with a blush brush, you simply stroke your brush across the blush, tap off any excess and apply.

Cream Rouge

It gives skin a moist, dewy finish. It is applied with the fingers and is easy to use, but it must be well blended. Because of its fairly high oil content, cream rouge is not recommend for oily or acne-prone skins. Its creamy texture makes it a good choice for the women with dry skin or one who wants a very subtle wash of color.

You don't have to worry about a cream rouge being too bright, because you can blend it down to almost nothing. Choose a rouge that feels silky, not greasy to touch. To apply cream blush, place three or four dots of color along your cheek bone with your middle fingertip, then gently smooth and "feather" the blush with your middle fingers until it is completely blended and no edges show.

Gels Or Cheek Tints

These are sheer blushes that come in a tube or a pot and are applied with fingertips. They are primarily water based, with little or no oil, so they are best on oily skin. However, because they contain so little oil, they also dry very quickly and can be difficult to apply. You have to dot them on one cheek at a time and blend deftly and quickly to avoid blotching.

Mistakes with gels are harder to correct than with any other form of blush, and they will often stain your skin, making the color too bright. If the color is too heavy, go over it with a small amount of foundation on a dry make-up sponge (water will streak a gel), smoothing the entire area. When properly applied, gels have the benefit of looking very sheer and natural and will last for a long time.


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